Beavering away happily and relatively quietly on the southern banks of the Fraser since its opening in June, Four Winds Brewing is steadily developing a solid reputation for high-quality ales (and a rather good pilsner).
The Delta brewery’s standing among beer geeks has only grown further with the release of special bottle-conditioned ales sealed with — wait for it — corks instead of caps.
Corked beer bottles have been a feature in Belgium for (likely) centuries and they’re gaining popularity in the U.S., particularly for bottle-conditioned beer that can be cellared, but it’s been a bit of a rarity north of the border.
Whether you’re aging it or not, any corked bottle makes for more of a special-occasion feel when you’re opening it. Of course, it helps if the contents are excellent — and happily, that’s the case with Four Winds Wildflower Saison. Admittedly, brewer Brent Mills had a pretty good starting point with his superb regular-production saison.
Read more about Four Winds Brewing here
Clear golden amber, the Wildflower Saison pours with a a lot of effervescence, producing lively, loosely packed but stable white head.
There’s gentle chamomile on the nose, which melds with the beer’s yeast and hops aromas to give bright scents of apple and pear. Beneath these are earthier, clove-driven spices and an acidic, mineral dryness. The overall aroma is strikingly similar to Zubrowka, the Polish bisongrass vodka, with its traditional apple juice mixer.
Flavourwise, those fruity apple and pear notes appear first before a duller bitterness sinks into tongue — but everything is kept buoyant by a fruity, yeasty tanginess and a whisper of chamomile. The almost salty mineraliness that’s so distinct in Four Winds’ regular saison grounds the finish and rounds out the beer with a flinty dryness.
My mind ran riot with possible food pairings for this saison. Bright, acidic dishes would be a natural complement, so ceviche and Thai salads would work well, and the beer would provide the citric foil to a range of simply seasoned fish dishes. But that big effervescence means this saison could also cut nicely through lighter, fruitier curries and a wide range of tacos, particularly with all those pickled condiments. Speaking of pickles, how about fish and chips with a couple of picked onions on the side?
Beer Cat: LOVES
750ml, limited amounts remaining at private liquor stores
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